Potential of antioxidant extracts produced by aqueous processing ofrenewable resources for the formulation of cosmetics

Abstract

The performance of natural extracts obtained from underutilized and residual vegetal and macroalgal biomass processed with food-grade green solvents was compared with that of commercial antioxidants. Selected extracts were obtained from two terrestrial sources: winery byproducts concentrate (WBC) and chestnut burs hydrothermally fractionated extract (CBAE), and from two underutilized seaweeds: Sargassum muticum extracts, either extracted with ethanol (SmEE) or after alginate extraction and hydrothermal fractionation (SmAE) and from Ulva lactuca processed by mild acid extraction and membrane concentration (UlAE). These extracts showed in vitro antioxidant properties comparable to commercial antioxidants and were safe for topical use based on the absence of skin-irritant effects at 0.1% on reconstructed human tissues. The stability of several cosmetic model emulsions was assessed during accelerated oxidation assays. The incorporation of natural extracts produced from renewable underutilized resources at 0.4-0.5% in an oil-in-water emulsions reduced lipid oxidation during storage.