dc.contributor |
Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya. Departament de Física |
dc.contributor |
Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya. DF - Dinàmica No Lineal de Fluids |
dc.contributor.author |
Ribas Prats, Francesca |
dc.contributor.author |
Falqués Serra, Albert |
dc.contributor.author |
de Swart, Huib E. |
dc.contributor.author |
Dodd, Nicholas |
dc.contributor.author |
Garnier, Roland Charles |
dc.contributor.author |
Calvete Manrique, Daniel |
dc.date |
2015 |
dc.identifier.citation |
Ribas, F., Falques, A., de Swart, H., Dodd, N., Garnier, R., Calvete, D. Understanding coastal morphodynamic patterns from depth-averaged sediment concentration. "Reviews of geophysics", 2015, vol. 53, p. 1-48. |
dc.identifier.citation |
8755-1209 |
dc.identifier.citation |
10.1002/2014RG000457 |
dc.identifier.uri |
http://hdl.handle.net/2117/79295 |
dc.language.iso |
eng |
dc.rights |
info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess |
dc.rights |
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/es/ |
dc.subject |
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física |
dc.subject |
Sediment transport ; Sand bars |
dc.subject |
sediment transport
coastal morphodynamic patterns
nearshore sand bars
beach cusps
sand ridges
self-organization |
dc.subject |
Platges -- Aspectes ambientals |
dc.title |
Understanding coastal morphodynamic patterns from depth-averaged sediment concentration |
dc.type |
info:eu-repo/semantics/submittedVersion |
dc.type |
info:eu-repo/semantics/article |
dc.description.abstract |
This review highlights the important role of the depth-averaged sediment concentration
(DASC) to understand the formation of a number of coastal morphodynamic features that have an
alongshore rhythmic pattern: beach cusps, surf zone transverse and crescentic bars, and
shoreface-connected sand ridges. We present a formulation and methodology, based on the knowledge
of the DASC (which equals the sediment load divided by the water depth), that has been successfully used
to understand the characteristics of these features. These sand bodies, relevant for coastal engineering and
other disciplines, are located in different parts of the coastal zone and are characterized by different spatial
and temporal scales, but the same technique can be used to understand them. Since the sand bodies occur
in the presence of depth-averaged currents, the sediment transport approximately equals a sediment load
times the current. Moreover, it is assumed that waves essentially mobilize the sediment, and the current
increases this mobilization and advects the sediment. In such conditions, knowing the spatial distribution
of the DASC and the depth-averaged currents induced by the forcing (waves, wind, and pressure gradients)
over the patterns allows inferring the convergence/divergence of sediment transport. Deposition (erosion)
occurs where the current flows from areas of high to low (low to high) values of DASC. The formulation and
methodology are especially useful to understand the positive feedback mechanisms between flow and
morphology leading to the formation of those morphological features, but the physical mechanisms for
their migration, their finite-amplitude behavior and their decay can also be explored. |
dc.description.abstract |
Peer Reviewed |