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Experimental investigation of wave patterns and their transformation from offshore into surfzone in Australian coastline
García-Mauriño Simón, Luis
Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya. Departament de Mecànica de Fluids; Escaler Puigoriol, Francesc Xavier
In this project an experimental investigation consisting on the measurement of the wave patterns and their transformation from offshore into surfzone in the Australian coastline is presented. The interest of this study is to validate a procedure to obtain field data under storm conditions that can be compared with mathematical models that need to be improved and validated for prediction of big natural disasters. The objectives of the work are first to set up the facility that consists in a series of manometer tubes ending at different lengths on the sea bed and covering the nearshore and the surfzone up to 500m. The beginning of the manometer tubes and the recording system are housed in a bunker buried into the sand. Second, it is intended to process the signals by the use of sensor calibrations, gain functions and local approximations to estimate the surface elevation. Finally, the sensor data is to be analysed in the time and frequency domains to extract the wave patterns and main parameters. The final tests have been carried out under no extreme weather conditions and the mean water levels and sensor signals have been recorded. After processing all the measurements, the mean water levels have been successfully compared to tide levels from a broadwater buoy. Moreover, wave heights and wave periods have been obtained with different analysis methods that are presented and discussed in the main text. Interesting wave height differences between the readings at the 500m tube and at the Gold Coast wave rider buoy have also been observed. These differences have been compared with the predictions of a numerical simulation done with SWAN software. In summary, the system capability and easiness to record data have been proved and profited to obtain measurements. Furthermore, the signal processing has been successfully applied to obtain relevant information about nearshore mean water levels and wave parameters. To finish, future perspectives for following investigations are given.
Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Física::Física de fluids::Flux de fluids
Ocean waves -- Measurement
Ocean waves -- Mathematical models
Signal processing
Onades -- Mesurament
Onades -- Models matemàtics
Tractament del senyal
Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya

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