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oai:recercat.cat:2117/69952025-07-17T07:36:32Zcom_2072_1033col_2072_452950

The role of surface rollers on the formation of surfzone transverse sand bars Ribas Prats, Francesca Swart, Huib E. de Calvete Manrique, Daniel Falqués Serra, Albert Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya. Departament de Física Aplicada Universitat Politècnica de Catalunya. DF - Dinàmica No Lineal de Fluids Àrees temàtiques de la UPC::Enginyeria civil::Geologia::Oceanografia Bars (Geomorphology) Seashore Sediment transport Sedimentació -- Transport Platges A morphodynamic model has been developed to gain more fundamental knowledge about the formation of transverse finger sand bars. The model describes the feedback between waves, rollers, depth-averaged currents and bed evolution, so that self-organized processes can develop. The wave and bathymetric conditions measured at Egmond site are firstly applied and the modeled longshore current and wave height are compared with field data of that beach. Subsequently, the wave and bathymetric conditions measured at Noordwijk site are used to compare model results with the up-current oriented bars observed there. Realistic positive feedback leading to formation of the observed bars only occurs if the resuspension of sediment due to bore turbulence is included in the model. The modeled wavelength, crest orientation and growth rate agree with data but the model overestimates the migration rates. Peer Reviewed Postprint (published version) 2009 Part of book or chapter of book Ribas, F. [et al.]. The role of surface rollers on the formation of surfzone transverse sand bars. A: "Coastal Dynamics 2009". World Scientific Publishing Company, 2009, p. 1-12. 978-981-4282-46-8 https://hdl.handle.net/2117/6995 eng http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/es/ Open Access Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivs 3.0 Spain 12 p. application/pdf World Scientific Publishing Company